Green Noodles (or, Tallarines Verdes)

Green noodles (or, Tallarines Verdes)

I recently spent the holidays in Peru, where I became infatuated with their take on pesto – the most velvety smooth, bright green version. When Peru started facilitating immigration from Europe in the late 19^th century, about 13,000 Italians ended up emigrating, mainly settling in Lima and Callao. They brought their pasta al pesto, with locals adapting the recipe to include ingredients commonly on hand – like queso fresco and condensed milk. I’m adapting it a bit further – substituting the condensed milk for half-and-half.

Sauté a few cloves of chopped garlic in olive oil or butter. When cooked, throw in a few chopped scallions. After a few minutes, add an enormous bunch of basil leaves and a bag of spinach. Sauté this briefly, just until the leaves are bright green and aromatic. They will wilt fast. Pour this mixture into a blender and add a bit of olive oil, a piece of queso fresco (1/4 cup or slightly more), about a half cup of half-and-half, salt and pepper. Blend for several minutes on high. Cook some spaghetti, drain it, and coat it with a touch of olive oil. Then toss the pasta with a generous amount of the sauce. In Peru, a thin cut of steak or chicken breast is draped over the top. A final suggestion? Cook this up while sipping on a Pisco Sour.