Green noodles (or, Tallarines Verdes)

Green noodles (or, Tallarines Verdes)

I recently spent the holidays in Peru, where I became infatuated with their take on pesto – the most velvety smooth, bright green version. When Peru started facilitating immigration from Europe in the late 19th century, about 13,000 Italians ended up emigrating, mainly settling in Lima and Callao. They brought their pasta al pesto, with locals adapting the recipe to include ingredients commonly on hand – like queso fresco and condensed milk. I’m adapting it a bit further – substituting the condensed milk for half-and-half.

Sauté a few cloves of chopped garlic in olive oil or butter. When cooked, throw in a few chopped scallions. After a few minutes, add an enormous bunch of basil leaves and a bag of spinach. Sauté this briefly, just until the leaves are bright green and aromatic. They will wilt fast. Pour this mixture into a blender and add a bit of olive oil, a piece of queso fresco (1/4 cup or slightly more), about a half cup of half-and-half, salt and pepper. Blend for several minutes on high. Cook some spaghetti, drain it, and coat it with a touch of olive oil. Then toss the pasta with a generous amount of the sauce. In Peru, a thin cut of steak or chicken breast is draped over the top. A final suggestion? Cook this up while sipping on a Pisco Sour.